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| San Telmo Market, 2 Tourists, Recoleta Cemetery and the Cathedral |
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| Eli's new digs |
First update of Week 2 is that Eli got a homestay through his school and on Saturday night packed up and went off to his apartment. We had decided very early on that if either of us could get a homestay we should take it. Splitting us up while we are learning Spanish is good for both of us since it forces us to practice more Spanish on our own, and a homestay, ideally supplies you with a whole family to practice with. So when Eli got the offer we were both very excited for him. Problem was, however, that we found out on Friday afternoon. I felt a little nervous about having my travel partner leave the next day with no real plan for me. So I started looking online and writing to people offering AirBnB stays and craigslist offers for rooms. The first couple I found were through AirBnB which looks great but is a complicated arrangement to book when you don't have easy internet access, so I missed most of those opportunities.
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| My blue room |
Then on Monday I got a response about an apartment where two Argentinian girls live where there was a spare room. In true random travel style, I went to view the apartment Monday afternoon and by Tuesday morning I was paying and moving my stuff in. So random how things work out but having Eli receive the homestay pushed me to look for a more comfortable place to stay and in the end I wound up with two very sweet Argentinian girls to live with. I could even practice my Spanish too!
Spanish Language Update
Another thing that happened this week is that I decided to move to another language school and take private lessons. I liked the Academia Buenos Aires but the group class environment didn't progress very quickly once I remembered everything I once knew about Spanish. I wanted to have a more personal curriculum. I really liked my teacher too at this new school, called CEDIC. A really good decision for me but I know Eli also really enjoyed what he was getting out of his more advanced classes at Academia. You have to do whats best for you.
On my second day I had a terrible morning where I got to school early and wanted to kill time in a coffee shop. I ordered a coffee but figured I should get it to go and it took 3 waiters to figure out how to interpret my request, spoken first in bad Spanish then in English. The guy at the table next to me finally said, in perfect English, what is it you want, can I help you? I said, I just want the coffee in a to-go cup. He said something to the waiter too fast for me to understand him and then went back to reading his newspaper. Not only couldn't I communicate this idea of leaving with my coffee to the waiter but I also couldn't understand what was being 'taught' to me by this man's help. I felt like I was never going to get it. I went up to my class a few minutes later and started my lesson by asking to review verb vocabulary. Its very difficult to communicate without knowing the words. So we spent an hour just introducing and reviewing commonly used verbs and it was perfect. Normally these Spainish 101 lessons are filled with grammar and the vocabulary is introduced along the way, but to be honest, the vocabulary is how you advance. I was happy that, with my private class situation I was able to ask for something exactly as I wanted it and we were able to cover it. Within a day or two I could tell I was improving. One successful street conversation can go a long way and with my new verb knowledge I was able to ask directions and respond that I understood. It was a little well timed turning point for me. By the way asking for anything to go is, Para Llevar.
Oh yeah, I forgot to say that I hated the hostel I stayed at the weekend Eli left. Could have contributed to how bad I felt that second morning of class, it was my last night there and by then I was done with it.
Sightseeing Buenos Aires
Recoleta Cemetery
[ 11 de Enero, 2014] The rest of the week Eli and I would get together on little dates :) and go sightseeing around town. One of our first stops was the Recoleta Cemetery. We had seen recommendations about this cemetery before but what a strange thing to highlight in a city? It was at the top of a hill in a green, pretty park in Recoleta, an expensive Buenos Aires neighborhood. We enjoyed the walk up there- there is such beautiful architecture in Recoleta!- but the cemetery too did have a bit of elegant charm to it. Liking it was a strange phenomenon as you actually could look into many of the crypts which made you feel like you were spying on the dead.
It is, as they say, where the rich and famous of Buenos Aires come to rest which almost makes it sound like an exclusive party. Looking in on the crypts, often damaged by wind storms and years of neglect, made me feel sad and not like this had turned out how the rich and famous had planned. But there were thousands of people visiting on the Saturday we were there, maybe that in itself is how these people wanted to be remembered- as special. Dust to dust right, maybe sometimes its more important the message that you want to leave.
On Sunday morning, at the very doable first mass time of 11:30 am, I went to mass at the Pope's cathedral. Pope Francis was the Archbishop of Buenos Aires until 2013 when he was elected Pope. He was very popular in all of Latin America even before becoming Pope. From what I understand, he lived in a little apartment and commuted like everyone else into city every morning. Now that I know what that commute is like (soo crowded and soo hot) I can really appreciate that. All over the city the Pope's picture is hung up and they are so incredibly proud of him. It's amazing to see. Where else would or has this happened? I have joked seeing his photo everywhere but to see the Pope held at a greater esteem then a celebrity in his home country (he was born in Argentina), he is treated almost like royalty. How beautiful. I have to say I was very touched by the presence of the Pope in my everyday life in Buenos Aires, literally everyday you would see him somewhere, and I look back at the pictures of his Cathedral now and I still feel a little bit of excitement. The Cathedral is completely unassuming from the outside but so delicate and light on the inside. I really enjoyed it.
Madres de Plaza de Mayo
[16 de Enero, 2014] Every Thursday, hold on a sec I'll repeat, every Thursday since 1977 an association called las Madres de Plaza de Mayo (The Mothers) marches in front of the Casa Rosada around the center fountain in Plaza de Mayo to remind the government that they are still looking for their children. Between 1976 and 1983 the government was trying to send a message to its opposition and it eliminated hundreds of activist young people. They all disappeared. To this day, no one has found their remains and the government still has not told these women where their sons and nephews are. So these mothers march.
Since they have been marching for almost 40 years these women are no longer young. The symbol of the association is a white handkerchief they wear on their head. Every Thursday their supporters and tourists come out to help them. People chant and encourage them on their walk. They make two laps and then stop. For 37 years they have carried out this demonstration, what a message!
San Telmo Market
[12 de Enero, 2014] The best feria (market) in Buenos Aires is the Feria de San Telmo! It is on Sundays on Calle Defensa in the quaint neighborhood of San Telmo. They sell antiques and furniture like a flea market. There are real artists selling paintings, jewelry and hand carved decorations sitting next to hippies selling friendship bracelets. There are great food stands throughout and live music being performed on dangerously crowded street intersections. My favorite things in a market are the multicolored awnings over all of the stands. The sun was beating down on us so it was a welcome retreat to stand under the cloth and enjoy the green or red or pink glow.
That's it for now, Chau!!
Photo Album Links:
Cathedral
https://plus.google.com/photos/109460435397456771231/albums/5976527202142583121?authkey=CO-Kv4O03ZTQRA
Week 2
https://plus.google.com/photos/109460435397456771231/albums/5976525163811711457?authkey=CPPYgOSRqre22AE
Spanish Language Update
Another thing that happened this week is that I decided to move to another language school and take private lessons. I liked the Academia Buenos Aires but the group class environment didn't progress very quickly once I remembered everything I once knew about Spanish. I wanted to have a more personal curriculum. I really liked my teacher too at this new school, called CEDIC. A really good decision for me but I know Eli also really enjoyed what he was getting out of his more advanced classes at Academia. You have to do whats best for you.
On my second day I had a terrible morning where I got to school early and wanted to kill time in a coffee shop. I ordered a coffee but figured I should get it to go and it took 3 waiters to figure out how to interpret my request, spoken first in bad Spanish then in English. The guy at the table next to me finally said, in perfect English, what is it you want, can I help you? I said, I just want the coffee in a to-go cup. He said something to the waiter too fast for me to understand him and then went back to reading his newspaper. Not only couldn't I communicate this idea of leaving with my coffee to the waiter but I also couldn't understand what was being 'taught' to me by this man's help. I felt like I was never going to get it. I went up to my class a few minutes later and started my lesson by asking to review verb vocabulary. Its very difficult to communicate without knowing the words. So we spent an hour just introducing and reviewing commonly used verbs and it was perfect. Normally these Spainish 101 lessons are filled with grammar and the vocabulary is introduced along the way, but to be honest, the vocabulary is how you advance. I was happy that, with my private class situation I was able to ask for something exactly as I wanted it and we were able to cover it. Within a day or two I could tell I was improving. One successful street conversation can go a long way and with my new verb knowledge I was able to ask directions and respond that I understood. It was a little well timed turning point for me. By the way asking for anything to go is, Para Llevar.
 |
| Bad Hostel- Arm band be gone |
Sightseeing Buenos Aires
Recoleta Cemetery
[ 11 de Enero, 2014] The rest of the week Eli and I would get together on little dates :) and go sightseeing around town. One of our first stops was the Recoleta Cemetery. We had seen recommendations about this cemetery before but what a strange thing to highlight in a city? It was at the top of a hill in a green, pretty park in Recoleta, an expensive Buenos Aires neighborhood. We enjoyed the walk up there- there is such beautiful architecture in Recoleta!- but the cemetery too did have a bit of elegant charm to it. Liking it was a strange phenomenon as you actually could look into many of the crypts which made you feel like you were spying on the dead.
There is one very famous grave here but if you didn't know you might miss it. Evita Peron is buried here under her maiden name, Duarte. Other than the crowds this tomb doesn't draw any special attention.
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| Crowds at Evita's tomb |
Metropolitan Cathedral
[12 de Enero, 2014]
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| Exterior of the Cathedral |
On Sunday morning, at the very doable first mass time of 11:30 am, I went to mass at the Pope's cathedral. Pope Francis was the Archbishop of Buenos Aires until 2013 when he was elected Pope. He was very popular in all of Latin America even before becoming Pope. From what I understand, he lived in a little apartment and commuted like everyone else into city every morning. Now that I know what that commute is like (soo crowded and soo hot) I can really appreciate that. All over the city the Pope's picture is hung up and they are so incredibly proud of him. It's amazing to see. Where else would or has this happened? I have joked seeing his photo everywhere but to see the Pope held at a greater esteem then a celebrity in his home country (he was born in Argentina), he is treated almost like royalty. How beautiful. I have to say I was very touched by the presence of the Pope in my everyday life in Buenos Aires, literally everyday you would see him somewhere, and I look back at the pictures of his Cathedral now and I still feel a little bit of excitement. The Cathedral is completely unassuming from the outside but so delicate and light on the inside. I really enjoyed it. |
| Photo exhibit in town featuring Pope Francis |
[16 de Enero, 2014] Every Thursday, hold on a sec I'll repeat, every Thursday since 1977 an association called las Madres de Plaza de Mayo (The Mothers) marches in front of the Casa Rosada around the center fountain in Plaza de Mayo to remind the government that they are still looking for their children. Between 1976 and 1983 the government was trying to send a message to its opposition and it eliminated hundreds of activist young people. They all disappeared. To this day, no one has found their remains and the government still has not told these women where their sons and nephews are. So these mothers march.
Since they have been marching for almost 40 years these women are no longer young. The symbol of the association is a white handkerchief they wear on their head. Every Thursday their supporters and tourists come out to help them. People chant and encourage them on their walk. They make two laps and then stop. For 37 years they have carried out this demonstration, what a message!
 |
| Eli watching the Mothers with a few classmates |
San Telmo Market
[12 de Enero, 2014] The best feria (market) in Buenos Aires is the Feria de San Telmo! It is on Sundays on Calle Defensa in the quaint neighborhood of San Telmo. They sell antiques and furniture like a flea market. There are real artists selling paintings, jewelry and hand carved decorations sitting next to hippies selling friendship bracelets. There are great food stands throughout and live music being performed on dangerously crowded street intersections. My favorite things in a market are the multicolored awnings over all of the stands. The sun was beating down on us so it was a welcome retreat to stand under the cloth and enjoy the green or red or pink glow.
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| San Telmo Market Bands |
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| San Telmo Antiques |
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| Market hunting |
Photo Album Links:
Cathedral
https://plus.google.com/photos/109460435397456771231/albums/5976527202142583121?authkey=CO-Kv4O03ZTQRA
Week 2
https://plus.google.com/photos/109460435397456771231/albums/5976525163811711457?authkey=CPPYgOSRqre22AE
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